Knock Knock -- who's there?

Halloween is coming up, you guys, with spooky fun for all ages, and candy and trick-or-treating and costumes and -- think about how weird that has to look to your dog. Not only is the doorbell going crazy ever two minutes  (ARF ARF ARF ARF!) but when it's opened -- what the heck, who is THAT? 

Masks? Brooms? Pirate swords? And then they holler "Trick or Treat!!" It's enough to make any dog a little nervous. 

Halloween can be a challenging time to be a good dog. 

Some dogs seem to figure it out as a non-threat pretty quickly, and that is probably a mixture of an everyday good temperament and good socialization and training. Other dogs think every footstep on the threshold is an immediate reason to sound the alarm! A small treat for the dog each time you give one to children at the door might help -- or it might just make the dog more excited when that knock comes.  A dimly-lit quiet room at the back of the house, with a radio playing moderately to help mask the noise of knocking, and a Kong or other long-lasting treat is probably the best answer for everyone. 

Some dogs are perfectly fine with the hubbub, and their acceptance of the human weirdness going on around them makes them targets for even more weirdness: 

I'm not a fan of pet costumes, but some people swear up and down that their pet likes to dress up. If it's no more restricting than a usual coat or sweater would be, then I suppose it's up to the owner. But please be careful with props that are sharp or can break/splinter, things that can poke eyes or ears or interfere with seeing, items that make eating, drinking, or pee/pooping difficult.  You know -- just like you would do for your own costume. And if your pet is obviously uncomfortable or distressed, take it off. 

Keep your pets out of the treat bowl, and remind your children and guests that feeding candy to pets is a no-no. Chocolate and Xylitol (an artificial sweetener in some candies) are both poisonous to pets, and can lead to big vet bills, or worse, death. 

Keep your pets indoors and watch to make sure they don't escape. Be sure all of your animals have sturdy collars on with identification tags attached in case they manage to get lost in all the activity. For years I've read warnings that black cats are especially at risk this time of year, but I'm not sure if that's true or just scary urban legend. I do know that any black pet is hard to see at night, so it just makes sense to keep all the critters at home where they are safe and secure.

 And most importantly of all, please remember to take all the KitKats from your Halloween stash and leave them as a treat for your friendly neighborhood petsitter. Yum!

Potty time!

I spend every day dealing with what comes out of animals, and fifteen years of experience has given me time to form some opinions on how to handle your pet's excretions. Let's have some potty talk!

Housebreaking a puppy is actually really easy. Companies make a big deal about pads and special sprays and all that garbage, but the simple truth is, normal dogs don't want to foul their dens. Your pup has a bladder roughly the size of a grape, so she can't hold it for long. Puppies have to pee all the time: when they wake up, after they've been playing, after they eat, and before going into the crate at bedtime. And tons of times in between! I took my pup outside every half hour during the day. I set the alarm on my watch to remind me. Every time it went off and she was awake, we went outside. She only ever had one indoor accident, and that was because I wasn't paying attention. And use a command! Tell her "Go potty" or "Do it" or "Hurry up" -- whatever you like as long as it's always the same. And when she goes, go crazy with the praise. You'll feel like a total idiot, I assure you, but she'll get the idea so fast and it's so much better than mopping up the carpet, right? And in the years to come, being able to take your dog outside and say "Hurry up" when it's 20 degrees and windy and you're in your pajamas, and watching her drop and squat like a champ-- it's worth it.

Make good use of baby gates or other blockades to keep them in one room (preferably one with a bare floor -- no carpet! The kitchen is usually good.)  I don't like using pads or newspapers because I think it can confuse a pup to be allowed to wee inside, but I understand that not everyone can stay at home with their puppy all day. A confined area with a toy or two, a bed, water bowl, and a few newspapers is a fine place for a puppy to spend time when you can't watch them every second.  Crates are beyond awesome, and I'll talk about them more another time.

Adult dogs with questionable habits can usually be retrained using the same methods, although they can generally go a little longer between times. I'd trust them for an hour, no more, until they started to get the idea.

Of course, some male dogs who aren't neutered or were neutered later in life may have developed the nasty habit of marking. This is about territory, not a need for relief, so it's a very hard habit to break. If you catch them at it and scold them, they just get more secretive about it. Sometimes the only thing you can do is keep them from making a mess. Belly bands are great for this, and also good for dogs that are incontinent due to age or medical issues.

A maxipad is held in place by a fabric band closed with velcro. Check and change the pad regularly, just like you would a baby's diaper, and don't leave it on 24/7 or --just like a baby-- he'll develop a rash. When he's outside, let some air and sunshine get down there! 

Females are usually less prone to marking, though there's always someone ready to show she's just like one of the guys. Bitch anatomy won't work with a belly band, so there are diaper pants available for the ladies. The problem with pants, male or female, is the issue of solids. When a dog poops while wearing a pants-style diaper, the poo tends to get squished around as they sit or lie down, making a real mess of their fur. No fun to clean up!  Looking at the picture below, I bet it would be relatively easy to adjust or trim the "tail hole" of these pants to allow for normal pooping, while still catching and absorbing the urine.

The product aisle of pet supply stores would have you believe that cleaning up your pet's indiscretions is a huge pain in the rear, but that's not necessarily so.  Isopropyl alcohol -- usually labelled as "rubbing alcohol" -- costs about a buck for a big bottle at the drug store, and it's the main ingredient in a lot of those flower-y smelling, expensive spray "treatments" you can find in the pet stores or cleaning aisle. Mix it 50/50 with water and put it in a spray bottle and you have a perfectly fine clean-up solution for hard surfaces or carpet, though it might dull the shine on hardwood, so test it somewhere inconspicuous first.

I have a whole rant about litterboxes, but this is long enough. Cat owners, stay tuned for next time!

Exactly the opposite of taking candy from a baby, really.

What a good dog!

Sheep Whisperer!

As a petsitter, it's just easier if I have agreeable, complaint dogs that go along nicely instead of a bunch of jerks (literally!) who pull me down the street.  I've worked with all kinds of dogs with all sorts of personalities, and as the results have been so universally positive, I'm starting to get pretty confident in my methods.

I decided I needed a challenge: a really obstinate dog, preferably a big one, with no training or manners, who would be a true test; who not only had no previous training, but maybe was outright defiant -- even aggressive. But where would I find such a dog?

Then I heard my friend Paige at the barn talking to another woman saying things like: He pulled me off my feet!  Then he ran around me so fast he almost got the lead around my neck! He was just out of control!   My ears pricked up. Was this a dog? A horse?  No -- it was a sheep. A Cheviot ram, to be specific.

I asked if she'd be willing to let me come out to her barn to try to teach this rambunctious critter a few leash manners. The answer was a resounding Yes! I had my test subject!

The closest thing I have to sheep experience is the fleece in my slippers. I have never owned a sheep or handled a sheep, except for feeding a handful of pellets to one or two at a petting farm years ago. My imaginary picture of a sheep is a soft, fluffy thing with a lilting "baaaa!" and perhaps a cunning ribbon around it's neck. You know, something like this:

When I arrived at Paige's barn, she cautioned me about the ram. He weighed 120 pounds and though he didn't have horns, I should still watch out for head butting. Probably best not to turn my back on him. He could jump pretty high, and would try to climb the walls of his stall. He had never bitten her or kicked, but he was fast and strong, and he had dragged her a few times. I looked in the stall expecting to see something like this:

And except for the terrifying expression, that wasn't far off, actually. "Chevy" the Cheviot ram was wild and wooly, and his fleece was not a fluffy white cloud but tangled and grey with bits of this and that stuck in it. His face had a passively interested expression. Not exactly "Oh hey! A new friend!" but at least he didn't seem to be sizing me up for attack.

Chevy was easily coaxed to me with a few Frosted Mini-Wheats. He was wearing a dog harness and collar, and Paige had a lead rope attached to the harness so she could grab him easily.

What do we know about harnesses? They make it easy and comfortable for the animal to pull! I knew it would be folly to let Chevy think for an instant that he could pull me around. So after I had gotten him used to me being around and reasonably okay with me touching him, I slipped a sheep halter over his head so I would have good control of him. A sheep halter is a pretty simple device: one strap to go behind the ears, and a noseband. The leadrope goes through the rings on the noseband and tightens when pulled on.

Chevy was pretty sure he was going to die. This thing on his face was just ruining his day and life was stupid and hard and who is this person and why is she so mean, anyway? He rubbed his face on the walls of his stall and tried to back away, then had a little freak-out where he launched himself into the air and bounced off the wall, knocking over his water bucket in his frenzy. I let him have his pity party. When he stopped for breath and stood still, I gave him a few apple treats to munch while he considered this new life event.

So now he was okay with wearing the halter. He didn't like it, but he wasn't terrifically fussed. Resigned -- that's what he was. As he stood there, he would occasionally sniff my gloved hand, as if to make sure I was still the same person who fed him the treats. After a few moments to rest and calm down, we started the next part of the exercise -- leading.

Paige provided me with a stick to encourage Chevy, who planted his feet and refused to move. I pulled gently and insistently on the halter, and tapped the back of his front leg to motivate him to move. It took a lot of tapping. I was starting to feel pretty bad about pulling and hitting this poor confused critter when he actually took his first step! I immediately removed all pressure and praised him, and let him rest for a moment. Then I asked him for another step. It took almost as long the second time, but the third time I asked for a step, he took two, and I was so pleased I gave him an apple treat. Soon he was stepping along well enough -- and stopping, too, which was also important -- that I decided to see how we did outside his stall.

So here we are. I'm leading him with the black line attached to his halter. The stripey rope is on his harness, and I'm holding it loosely to use as back-up restraint in case he should make a serious break for freedom. The wild daisies that grow in the field seemed to be a special treat for him, so I led him from one patch to the next. 

Who's a good boy? Yes --you are! What a good boy! And actually quite handsome, as sheep go. We like you quite a lot, yes we do. Such a clever boy.

Isn't this the look of a relaxed and compliant critter? After an hour and a half of consistent and patient work, he was behaving beautifully and Paige was amazed and pleased. She hopes to run him through the livestock auction next weekend and it will be so much easier now he's able to walk nicely on a lead. Maybe he'll sell for breeding stock, and not meat! Maybe she'll even decide to keep him herself.

Proper leash manners -- they can save lives. And now I can add the title "Sheep Whisperer" to my list of other accolades.

Invisible Fences

Invisible fencing is a technology that's developed in the last twenty years or so.  It consists of a wire buried underground that transmits a signal to a collar worn by the pet within a certain distance. Some collars give a warning tone first, and then what the company terms a "static correction"-- a shock, in other words -- to encourage the pet to move away from the area.

Look out, pal -- you're awfully close to the edge!

The pet must be trained to respond correctly to the warning signal; to move away to avoid the zap. Companies that install these systems usually provide some education for the owners, with a training lesson or a video that shows how to work with their pets to teach them.  Systems bought in pet supply stores have videos or booklets that explain the training process.

I know you're waiting for it: what do I think of invisible fences?

I hate them.

Oh, Karen! You hate everything!  Look at that doggy -- he's got all that big yard to play in, and he seems happy. What on earth makes you hate invisible fencing?

Here's a scenario for y--

Oh, you and your wild scenarios. They're always full of crazy mishaps that could never really happen. 

Like a dog chasing a ball? I don't know about your dog, but mine's part lab and she's a maniac for her ball. The retriever up there in the picture, I bet he's the same way. Let's call him "Buddy". You know he's got a bucket of muddy tennis balls with the fuzz chewed half off.  So let's put him in his invisibly-fenced yard, and let's say he's been very well trained by a competent invisible fence professional.  His owner gives the ball a throw and it bounces outside the "fenced" area. Buddy goes tearing after it and doesn't care about the tone or even the zap because BALL BALL GOTTA GET THE BALL!  Ha ha, retrievers, right? They're so goofy.

Now Buddy is outside his perimeter and has his ball and when he tries to come back -- ZAP! He circles around a bit and tries another way and ZAP! Fortunately his owner (who threw the ball) is there, and can help him out by taking off the collar and bringing him back into the yard. But what if Buddy had been playing by himself? Let's change that scenario a bit: Buddy sees a squirrel, another dog, something irresistible out there and away he goes. Five minutes later he returns, abashed and repentant, and tries to re-enter his yard. ZAP! How does he get home? What happens next?

Or here's another one for you: a stray dog comes into the yard and attacks Buddy -- there's nothing to keep other animals out. Or someone walks up to him, takes his electric collar off, and leads him away with promises of bacon. Or the neighbor kids decide it's fun to see the doggy jump and tease him by pushing or chasing him towards the buried cable. Or Buddy becomes injured or stuck close the the fence line and is repeatedly shocked with no way to escape. Or the collar malfunctions and delivers repeated or stronger shocks.

From experience with a client, I can tell of two dogs that would run to the wood fence around their yard to bark at passersby. The owner decided an underground electric fence would stop this behavior, and put one around the wood fence.. Every time the dogs approached the wood fence to bark, they'd get zapped, but they didn't understand it was the fence doing it -- the dogs connected the zap with the people and dogs they were barking at. The two formerly amiable dogs became aggressive and unpredictable, and were ultimately put to sleep.

Is this dog running free, or in an invisible fence?
You have about 20 seconds to decide if you need to defend yourself. 

And just as a final personal note, it's frankly terrifying for me to see a dog come running, apparently uncontrolled, across a yard towards me -- only to stop short three feet from me because of the invisible fence I can't see. Once those little training flags are gone and the owner takes down the "This Yard Protected by Invisible Fence!" sign because he's sick of mowing around it, there is nothing there to tell me that the dog charging at me is not going to attack.

And even worse is the jerk who has the sign, but the fence is turned off or no longer works, and the dog runs up and does attack. It was a great dane/lab mix, if you're interested, and I had to kick him in the head twice before he stopped trying to bite the shy elderly golden retriever I was walking responsibly on a leash.

So, scenarios aside, let's look at the positive things an electric fence does, compared to a standard traditional fence :

Electric underground "invisible" fence:
-keeps your dog in (except in cases of malfunction/breakage/willful disregard)
-allows a panoramic view of open property

Standard fence:
-contains pets and children safely
-keeps stray/dangerous animals out
-keeps unwanted people out
-adds to property value
-adds privacy
-provides a trellis for vining plants and flowers

All in all, I can't see any reason to prefer an electric fence over a standard visible one.  I have a picket fence in the front yard and my dog is never out there unattended. The back yard has a six-foot chain link fence with locks on the gates and a dog door into the house. I never worry about my dog hanging out back there during the day. Why would anyone want to mess with an electric invisible fence?

Read more about the dangers of invisible fences:

Whole Dog Journal tells of a dog who suffered severe electrical burns.

Dogtime talks about the safety and ethics of underground electric fences.

Associated Press article tells of injured dog, upset owners, and a lawsuit.

Pictures of shock collar damage, which aren't as uncommon as you'd hope.  (Warning: Graphic)

Coyotes: now with 100% fewer rollerskates and anvils.

I live in town now, so the biggest critters I have to worry about are raccoons. For those of you that live in semi-rural or countryside locations, this article has some good tips for you to consider to help keep Fluffy and Fido safer from those wiley coyotes.

Beagle Mayhem!

I saw this today and just had to share it. What lovely work these people are doing, giving these dogs a whole new life after their service to the science industry. I was very surprised to see the beagles lose their fear and start exploring, running, and socializing so quickly after being introduced to the new situation. I wonder if they had time to play together indoors at some point before this. Maybe they really are just that adaptable and plucky.

If you'd like to learn more about the Beagle Freedom Project, check out their website at http://www.beaglefreedomproject.org/ for more videos and information. Then go outside and play with your dog!

Wee Birds and What They Want

Yesterday while I was walking a dog, I almost stepped on a baby bird on the sidewalk. I thought it was dead so I tugged the curious dog away and kept walking, but something made me turn back after a few more steps. I took a closer look, and it turned out the little guy was still alive. I can't think of anything worse than dying on hot asphalt in glaring sunlight, so I picked him up to move him under the shady protection of a nearby bush.

It was a nestling robin. I didn't take a picture, but I found one that looks about the same age and stage of development on the internet. 

Not particularly cute, but sweet all the same.

He may have fallen from his nest, or maybe a parent bird kicked him out for reasons only known to birds. I don't know how long he'd been on the ground. He wasn't making any noise, and struggled feebly in my hand, head wobbling. I settled him in the shade, wished him luck, and walked away.

Then I spent the next three hours arguing with myself about whether I had done the right thing.  I almost went back three times to pick him up and bring him home to try to hand-raise him. What stopped me? Well, for one thing, it's a federal offense to keep wildlife in captivity without a license. For another, I know nothing about feeding and caring for baby birds. And also, he could be injured or sick in ways I couldn't see which would make my efforts futile even if I were an expert. For all I know, he may have died two minutes after I walked away. 

It's interesting how horrible you can feel even after you've made a decision you're sure is right. Hours later, one of my friends said I could have taken him to a wildlife rescue. By that point, I figured it was far too late to go re-rescue the little guy. And wildlife rescues are probably busy enough without me bringing in one more common robin to deal with. Robins are hardly endangered, and the loss of one would not make a huge difference in the population. 

But I resolved to learn more so that the next time this happens, I'll know exactly what to do. 

There are two kinds of young birds you'll find on the ground: nestlings, like the one pictured above, with developing feathers, still partly naked and kind of grotesque-looking, and fledglings, who are older, have their feathers and can hop and flutter, but haven't got terrific flying skills yet.

Nestling: Feed me! All day, all the time!

Nestlings need your help. If you can see the nest they fell from, try to put them back. It's not true that parent birds will reject young that have been handled. Birds don't have very good senses of smell. So get the ladder and put the little one back in the nest. 

If you can't see a nest, then take a sturdy box or plastic container, line it with soft cloth or toweling, and nail it to the tree, high enough up that it's out of the reach of pets (and curious children) and put the baby bird in that. Parent birds have raised their babies in these, but I bet they wonder about our sorry nest-making skills. 

If you can't get the baby back into some sort of nest -- maybe there's a tree-climbing cat that has noticed what you're up to -- you might decide to take care of the baby yourself. It won't be as fun as you think. Baby birds need constant feeding. We're talking about every fifteen minutes all day long, sunrise to sunset. Once it's dark, you're relieved of duty -- at least with robins. They'll sleep about six hours at night -- but once the sun comes up, it's time to start poking food into your new baby's open beak. And it has to be the right variety of food. Birds eat grains, insects, worms, fruit -- all kinds of things, and if they don't get enough of the right vitamins and minerals, they'll die or not develop properly. So don't think you'll just poke a worm in there and be done with it. 

Besides the fact that it's a federal offense to keep or raise wildlife in captivity unless you have a special license. 

You're really better off taking it to a rescue. If you don't know where one is, you can take the little critter to your vet, and they will know who to call and what to do from there.

Fledgling: I'm chill, bro. Don't make it weird.

Fledglings are usually okay on their own. If you find one on the ground and it looks all alone, go away and watch it from a distance for a while. A parent bird is usually nearby, foraging for food, and will probably return within half an hour to feed the baby. This time on the ground is important for fledges, as they learn how to find food on their own and get to explore a bit. They are hardly ever "abandoned".  In the case of crows, there is an entire team of older birds that keep an eye on the younger birds, so even if a parent is killed somehow, other birds will still see to its care. 

Keep pets (and curious children) away and leave it alone.

If you are convinced that a fledgling is in danger, line a shoebox or similar with soft cloth or paper towels and put the bird inside. Don't attempt to feed it, but take it to a vet or rescue and let a wildlife professional take over. Because, like I've already said, it's a federal offense to keep or raise wildlife in captivity unless you have a special license. 

Okay, now that the birds are all safe, let's take care of one last little thing: if you are interested in becoming a wildlife rehabilitator, you can start that journey here: http://www.nwrawildlife.org/  

Tasty Toy?

Nothing makes a puppy happier than a new toy to play with. But what if that toy... is a lemon?

A Disclaimer and Some Other Stuff.

That sidebar "Dog Health Tips of the Day" is not written by me. The Blogger template has places to insert "gadgets", and that was the only one I could find that was pet-related. I know, weird! I thought there'd be lots, too, but no. Just that one.

Some of the tips seem a bit obvious, and some are kind of off-beat, like today's "Use boxes or chairs to make a maze for your dog to explore." But if you have kids this would be a fun activity for them to share, I guess.

Anyway, you can read them or ignore them, nod in agreement or roll your eyes, or just casually enjoy the subtle oddity of them. I just want you to know that none of those "health tips" are coming from my brain. Maybe one will spark an idea or you'll have a question -- in which case, use the "Contact Me" form at the top of the page and we can have a discussion!

That "Contact Me" form is also a great way to send in your topic ideas. I have plenty of things to talk about -- and heaven knows I will, on and on and on -- but if there's something you'd like to see covered here, please drop me a note.  It's also a good way to reach me to schedule pet care visits, if needed.

Okay, that's all. It's gonna be hot today, so remember to make sure your pet's water dish is full and fresh, and see that they have a shady spot or a place in front of the fan so they can get cool. And of course we all know never to leave our pets in the car, right? Because that's a killer.

See ya next time!

Old School!

I found this while cruising around the internet and thought I'd share. As you can see, basic dog training doesn't change much over the decades. But what the heck is up with that "sit" hand signal? They look like they're trying to chop the dog in half! My signal for Josie to sit is just touching my thumb and forefinger together like I'm saying "ok" -- much more subtle than the flailing arm they use.

Also, I think "Jason" is an odd name for a dog. That's just me, though.

Collar talk.

Dog collars have been around since the dog was first domesticated. Ancient Egyptians put collars on their dogs -- or at least the wealthy folks did. Dog collars in olden days served two important purposes: to protect the dog's neck during fights or hunting, and to mark the dog with the name of its owner. The Dog Collar Museum in Leeds has many examples of the sort of neck wear that adorned dogs in the old days. 

If you read my previous post about leashes, I bet you can guess what my favorite kind of collar is. Yep, that's right -- a basic leather one with a sturdy buckle. 

A classic good look for any dog, in my opinion, and suitable for walking, training, or just holding name and license tags. One of the nice things about a flat leather collar is that you can rivet a name plate onto the collar itself, and avoid all that tag-jingling noise. 

A flat nylon color is fine, too. They come in all colors, with a wide variety of decorations to suit the owner's personality and taste. I prefer metal buckles to the plastic clip kind, because plastic can break. I have no objection to nylon collars. 

There are plenty of other styles on the market, and plenty of other ways to secure your dog to a leash. Let's look at a few:

MARTINGALE

This is a Martingale collar. The large loop goes around the dog's neck, and the smaller loop is attached to the leash, where it tightens the collar on the neck when pulled. These are very popular with the greyhound rescue people. Apparently greyhounds (along with other sight hounds) have heads that are smaller than their necks and there's a concern that they can back out of a standard collar. Martingale collars must fit correctly, so that the ends of the collar meet without choking the dog or being loose enough to allow an escape. I've seen some of these made from fancy brocade materials that were quite regal looking. I wouldn't use one for training, but for general walking, this kind of collar would be fine. I bet I could find one in leather, so that's a plus. 

CHAIN COLLAR

When I was growing up, just about every dog I knew was wearing one of these. It's called a "choke chain" but I've also heard them called a "slip collar". This kind of collar went along with a style of training that advised you to correct your dog's bad behavior by jerking on the leash, which would then administer a strangling sensation to the dog. Some trainers even recommended that you pull the leash straight up, taking the dog onto his hind legs and holding him there for a second -- literally hanging him-- before releasing him and hoping that he'd remember the unfortunate lesson he'd just learned. What a dark, dark time that was. Ugh. 

There is another school of training that uses this collar where the leash is "popped" -- given a short, sharp tug-- which takes up the slack in the collar, making a zipping sound that is meant to gain the dog's attention but not choke on the neck. It takes careful fitting and a precise hand to administer this sort of correction. Not for the casual dog owner, I don't think. 

This type of collar also has to be put on the dog correctly. If it's done right, the collar will tighten and loosen with the tension on the leash. If it's put on backwards, the collar will tighten but not loosen as readily. I see these incorrectly on dogs all the time. Does it really matter that much? you ask.  Well, it's about as uncomfortable for the dog as having your shoes always on the wrong feet would be for you. 

These aren't necessary for training, are often used incorrectly, and aren't suitable for walking, daily wear, or any other use. Don't buy one. They are an outdated relic of a bygone era.

PRONG COLLAR

The fearsome-looking prong collar is another device that can work well in the hands of a professional trainer. It is best used for short periods to manage behavioral issues until they can be eliminated through training. 

It looks terribly bitey, doesn't it? And it is. When a mother dog corrects her puppy, or a pack leader corrects a member of the pack, they nip at the neck of the subordinate dog to say "Quit it." Cesar Milan ("The Dog Whisperer") does this with his dogs when he pokes them in the neck to correct them.  Like the chain collar, the prong collar is meant to be "popped" by the leash to give the dog a correction he will instinctively understand. 

I see these used mostly by people who own big, strong dogs that were never adequately trained and now overpower their owner. One of my clients said, "This collar is like power steering for my dog!" And yes, while wearing this collar, the dog that used to drag her down the street was more controllable. The problem? She assumed the prong collar fixed the problem,  and didn't use its effectiveness to re-train her dog. Eventually the dog's neck toughened up, it ignored the collar, and the pulling was as bad as it ever was. 

This is a training collar. It is meant to give you an advantage over a powerful dog while you train it to behave correctly so that the collar will no longer be necessary. It's not meant for daily wear. 

Also, I hate these things because those prongs pop apart for no reason at random moments, and then the dog is loose. No fun. 

If you're working with a trainer that advises you to buy one of these and will show you its correct use, that's fine. Other than that, I'd advise against this collar.

HALTER

Gentle Leader, Halti, whatever the name -- head halters are an idea that makes good sense to me, since I am used to using them on horses. I got one for Josie when she was young, and she still wears it for at least part of all her walks.  The idea here is that the dog goes where the nose goes; if you control the head, the body will follow. It's a different feel than walking with a standard collar, because instead of quick checks on the leash to correct the dog, you use more of a steady pull to bring the head around. The nice thing is, properly done, it brings the dog's head around to look at you -- which is where his attention should be in the first place, during training. 

They do have to be fitted correctly, and some dogs just won't abide having them on and freak out, but if you introduce it at an early age with lots of treats and gentleness, halters can be a nice way to handle exuberant dogs. 

I hate to see a dog wearing one that's all pulled around on his face while he walks sideways, struggling. This device is an aid for training, not a replacement for it! You still need to train your dog, but a halter can make it a bit easier. And see in the picture there, what the halter is clipped to? That's right -- a standard flat buckle collar. Josie often wears her halter for the beginning of walks when she is fresh and frolicsome, but coming home from the park, panting from a good game of fetch, I'll move the leash clip to her regular collar and she does just fine. 

HARNESS

Ahh, the harness.  For some breeds, the harness makes good sense: bulldogs and pugs, for example, often have short, thick necks that are wider than their heads, and collars just slip off. For dogs who have learned the clever trick of slipping out of their collars and running away, a harness can also prevent an escape. And harnesses are comfortable for dogs who have sustained neck injuries in the past. Some of the smaller breeds like Yorkies and Chihuahuas have fragile necks and are better served with a harness to keep them under control.

Unfortunately, most people buy harnesses because their dog pulls with his regular collar, makes choking, gasping noises, and looks uncomfortable. Instead of working on their dog's problem -- lack of training -- they buy a harness, which takes care of that unattractive wheezing and also makes it much more comfortable for the dog to continue in his bad behavior.  Thanks, kind owner!  thinks Bowser. Now I can really put my chest and shoulders into it! 

In response to this problem, harness companies have now moved the leash clip ring from between the dog's shoulders to the front of the chest, a solution that looks inelegant at best and has questionable value when used to train pulling behavior out of a dog.

WHAT THE HECK?

What is this? I don't even... That poor dog. Apparently this is meant to curtail forward motion by forcing his hind end under him? I could see friction burns happening on the inner hind legs from that thin rope. If this is meant as an aid in teaching the dog to sit, then it's marketed to morons. Teaching a dog to sit is the easiest, most basic thing imaginable and most dogs learn it in less than five minutes. And if this thing is meant to stop pulling by taking the dog off balance and dumping him on his butt, then I maintain it's nothing more than bullying. It teaches the dog nothing except that you can hurt him at any time, and I guarantee you the end result of that is an emotionally disturbed dog that will bite out of frustration and fear.

IN CONCLUSION

Basic collars were standard dog wear for centuries, with harnesses for dogs who actually had the job of beast of burden -- like Josie here, bringing home a 6-pack of hard cider in her cart.

It's only in the last couple of decades that things have changed and we've started to see more and more elaborate devices on the market. I maintain that if you have a dog that is hard to control, the solution is training, not gimmicks. Your money is much more wisely spent on an hour or two with a professional trainer who can show you how to work with your dog towards better behavior. Training takes time, but it's time spent communicating with your dog and developing a relationship -- and isn't that why you got him in the first place? 

What kind of leash?

Well, you already know what I consider the perfect all-purpose leash: classy, strong, safe leather. But there are lots of other kinds to buy; the shops are full of different designs.

A well-trained dog can be walked in any of them, but it seems like I see most of these marketed to people as a way to more easily handle a dog that is difficult for them to handle.  Do they really help?

I did a Google search for "dog leash" images and picked out the most common styles.

I'd call this a "tow leash". This particular one is made of polyurethane, but I've seen the same style handle on nylon and rope leashes. You're meant to grip the end like you'd hold a door handle or a bucket. There's really no other way to fit it comfortably in your hand. I see a few problems here. First of all, it's polyurethane, which can either stick in your hand or get really slippery, depending on the finish. (I can't really tell which this is from the picture, but I've run into both kinds.)  And it counts on you being able to hold your dog's weight with your hand's weakest point -- the fingers. So let's say you have the handle gripped in your right hand, your left hand is holding the leash about halfway down, and Rover suddenly says "Squirrel!" and off he goes. Your left hand will either slide because the polyurethane is slippery or reflexively let go because it's tearing at your skin, so you're left trying to hold the weight and force of a lunging dog with four fingers. Not very secure. Also, this particular model is only three feet long, which is quite short. Probably the user is meant to hold it with one hand by design.  As a training leash I think it's horrible, and for regular walking I think you could do much better.

This leash has a bungee cord-style interior, covered by what looks like cotton canvas. The bungee is supposed to reduce shock to your arm and the dog's neck when he pulls.  This sort of leash makes effective training impossible. Important signals are sent from your hands to the dog through the leash, and this leash allows for none of that. And here's a scenario for you: you're holding the leash correctly in both hands, your dog is walking very nicely at your side, and everything is great. Then your dog spots a bit of something tasty (dead bird, poop, discarded fast food wrapper) and makes a move to grab it. You tug on this leash to stop him, and boing! he just stretches on down and wolfs it down before you can stop him.  I hate these.

Let's wear the dog with this hands-free leash! What a great idea! And they can be, with that well-trained dog. Of course, if he were a well-trained dog, you could just use a regular leash, right? I'm not sure why you couldn't hold a leash while running, but that seems to be the main objective here. Maybe you're pushing a baby stroller? Okay, let's go with that, since it makes sense. There you are, jogging through the park with the baby stroller, with the dog tied to your waist. Or better yet, just walking. Let's be safe and walk. Both hands on the stroller, dog tied to the waist, latte in the cup holder and it's a lovely day. The leash shown in this picture is far too long and when Rover steps away to sniff at the grass, he clotheslines a little girl on a scooter which pulls you to the ground, scares the dickens out of him, and spills your latte. Plus you have that little girl's mother shouting at you to control your dog.

You have no control of your dog with this leash. You can't train with it, and the only signal you can send is "stop", once he reaches the end of it. In order to do anything more, you must take your hands off whatever they were doing that prevented you holding the leash in the first place. (Hey, where'd the baby stroller roll off to?)

These leashes actually do have a good use. They are terrific for in the house to help you keep an eye on a dog whose housebreaking skills you're not sure of, like a puppy or a new older dog. It promotes comfort in the dog, because he gets to stay near you. It enforces a your leadership, because he must follow you where you go and stay near when you stop. For some shelter dogs who have never had any training, this sort of attachment can be just what they need to build confidence, and it can be the first step in training a young puppy to walk nicely on a leash because they naturally want to stay near you and go where you go.

But for training outside or regular walking? No, thank you.

You knew this was coming, didn't you. I bet you can already guess how I feel about extendable leashes.  I hate them with the burning hate of a thousand supernovas. They're the perfect trifecta of despicable qualities: that fingers-only handle, the no-limits stretchiness, and amazing length to wrap around things and tangle.

These horrible things are most often seen in the hands of someone whose dog just won't behave so they've given up. Or they think it's more fun for the dog if he can run around.  Come on, people.

Have you ever read the warnings on the side on these? The ones about how that thin cord can cause injury and even cut off your fingers if you grab it? And yet I see people trying to restrain their dogs by grabbing that cord all the time. The button at the top that "locks" the cord often pops loose under stress.  I'll happily show you the scars I have behind both knees when a dog ran around me while I was wearing shorts. You know what takes a long time to heal? Deep burned cuts behind your knees. Oh hey, I found a picture of an injury just like mine...

Every single person at the dog park near where I walk has these stupid leashes. They let the length out so their dogs can sniff and greet each other, and then there's  "Whoops!" and "Oh dear!" as they wind around each other, threading through arms to untangle the leashes as the dogs scamper. Ugh. It's like they want to have seared leash cuts or something.

Now let's talk a little about the dog at the end of the retractable leash. At the least, he's very confused. Because his human can click that leash to stop him at any point along the line, he has no clear idea of what his boundary is. Sometimes he can go way over there! Sometimes he can only go a few feet. And one time he was running over to a tree and just about got knocked off his feet when he reached the end of the leash!

And if you think that a dog's neck is strong enough or different somehow from ours and doesn't get injured by all those sudden stops, you're mistaken.

What about when Rover hits the end of the leash and yanks it from your hand? Suddenly it's winding up, that plastic handle bouncing and rattling, chasing after him! This can be scary to a dog, and without you to help him or control him, he might dash into traffic or crash into a bicycle -- all sorts of trouble. And it certainly doesn't make it any easier to catch him, even if he avoids accidents.

I could go on an on, but by now I'm sure I don't need to.

Oh, but Karen, I hear you saying, These are pretty wild scenarios you've some up with. I mean, it's just a leash. Is it really that big a deal? 

Okay, maybe it's because I walk dogs all day or maybe it's because of my experience handling horses, but I have a tendency to think "What could go wrong with this?" when I look at situations. Accidents happen, and the last thing I want to do is injure an animal or myself with sub-par equipment or methods. I would rather see my friends and clients combine good training and a basic leash than try to shortcut their way to a manageable dog with gimmicks.

Next time: I talk about collars, harnesses, and halters -- which is best for your dog?

Speaking of leashes...

...how great are these? What a terrific idea. Having a visible message is a great way to let people know something important about your dog before they approach, and might start a conversation, too.

As a professional dog walker, it happens to me all the time: someone brings their dog over with "He wants to say hi!" and when I say that my dog is nervous/aggressive/unpredictable they just smile and say "Oh, it's okay! Fido here is real friendly!"

That's how bites happen.

I may just get a couple of these for my business -- the leashes, that is. We'll discuss my feelings about harnesses another time.

Leash Basics.

I'm a big fan of leashes. Of course it's lovely to see a dog frolicking in a grassy field, and there are some activities that just don't work on a leash -- fetch, anyone? -- but for the most part, if a dog is outside of its home or fenced yard, it should be on a leash. 

My favorite kind of leash is about six feet long and made of leather, with a good strong brass or stainless steel clip. About 3/4" wide works for most dogs, maybe 1/2" one for the smaller pups. Leather is great because it's strong but not stiff, looks good on any dog, and it won't burn you like a nylon leash will if a dog suddenly takes off and zings it through your hand. A good leather leash will easily last the lifetime of your dog, and they usually don't cost more than $20. I've found nice ones at thrift shops for a couple of bucks. 

The perfect leash.

I see a lot of people put their hand through the loop at the end, or wrap it around their hand a couple times, and that's a good way to get your wrist sprained or broken if the dog lunges, stops suddenly, or takes off in an unexpected direction. Here's how I hold a leash:

 Put your thumb through the loop and lay the rest across your palm.

Grip with your fingers and that's all there is to it! Clip the other end to the dog's collar. The dog walks on your left. 

Now take the middle of the leash in your other hand like so...

...and close your fingers around it. If you've ever taken riding lessons you'll recognize this hold, because it's how riders are taught to hold reins. It allows for a strong but flexible hold; the leash's tension is controlled by how tight your fingers are. The leash goes from the loop over your right hand's thumb and through that fist, to your left hand between thumb and forefinger, and coming out the bottom, between your pinky and ring finger, and then to the dog. Which is just a very complicated way of saying this:

And now Josie's mad at me because I put her leash on for a picture and didn't take her for a walk afterwards. Sorry, Josie! 

This is a very secure hold. If you tighten your left hand and pull back from your elbow, you can control even a very large dog quite easily, and if things really go haywire, you can bring your right hand (holding the loop) behind your back and that dog isn't going anywhere. Have you ever seen someone rappelling down a cliff? Often they'll have a hand at or near their back. That's their brake. They close their hand on that rope and bring it to the middle of their back, and they stop moving. If it will stop them falling off a mountain, it will stop your lab from going after that squirrel. Just bend your knees and lean back. 

I think that's enough for today. Next time, I'll discuss different types of leashes and collars, and how to find what works best for your dog. 

Welcome to Walkies!

Welcome the official blog for Walkies! Professional Petsitting! 

This is where you can come to see what sort of nonsense I've been getting up to lately in a life that's clearly gone to the dogs. I'll share pictures of my adventures with doggy friends, things I've learned during fourteen years holding a leash, tips and tricks you can use to make life better with your own critters, safety information to keep everyone happier and healthier, and product reviews -- because I have tons of opinions and want to tell you all about them. 

But to start things out, I'll introduce myself...

 

Awww, lookit how cute I am! This is me at age four with the dog I grew up with, Duchess. She was a German Shorthaired Pointer, and probably the most tolerant dog on the face of the planet. Ostensibly my dad's hunting dog, in the off season she was an agreeable family pet and we loved her dearly for 13 years. My love of dogs started with her. 

Growing up, my family always had dogs and cats. I learned early animals were members of the family, not just possessions. They had feelings and deserved just as much care and kindness as the humans in my life did -- in fact, more, because they couldn't care for themselves. Duchess couldn't make herself a sandwich or order a pizza if she was hungry, or call the vet if she didn't feel good. She depended on us to be aware of her needs, just like a 50-pound, hair-covered, tail-wagging, dog-breathed baby, and we were responsible for her because we had chosen her to be our dog.  Thanks to my parents, I grew up with not only an appreciation for how cute and fun pets were, but also the empathy to respond to their needs. 

I started Walkies! in 2001 after driving past the capitol building. I was headed to a restaurant job I didn't particularly enjoy, and was thinking how much I'd rather be walking my dog around the lake. Suddenly I thought about all the people working in government offices. If half of those employees owned a dog, and half of those dog owners were wondering if they'd have time at lunch to hurry home and get the dog outside for a potty break, and half of those worried people would pay me to stop by and take their dog outside so they didn't have to rush -- why, I'd have more business than I could handle!  And I wasn't aware of a single person already doing this useful job!  I went home and made some flyers and posted them around town. Six months later I had enough clients to leave that restaurant job and start petsitting full time, and I've been a pet care professional ever since. 

Hang on a second...

...Okay, I'm back. I was trying to get a picture just now of my dog Josie and me in the backyard, but she thinks the only reason in the world to be in the yard is to play ball, and she just could not be coaxed to sit next to me for a selfie. All she wanted to do was frolic and roll in the grass. I finally got her inside for a few pictures, but as you can see, she is a dog of action and resists all attempts at proper photography. And I got to laughing so hard I couldn't take a decent snap.

 

And if you're thinking, "Hey, Josie looks just like--" Yes, you're right! She is (part) German Shorthaired Pointer, too. She's very photogenic, and I think she's the prettiest dog in the whole world, so I'm sure you'll see many more pictures of her as you read this blog.